Wednesday, 20 February 2013

A foray into fitting: part 1

I have taken the plunge and got myself 2 hours of 1-2-1 tutoring at sewoverit for my birthday. Given I want to make something other than skirts, and I have no sewing buddy, I felt it was time to set a pattern into professional hands and fit it for me.

I took the pattern in Lynda Maynard's Craftsy course as a model because the bodice resembles a normal fitting block quite well. I'll try to get a normal fitting block done as well, but measuring one's back is hard :|

Today I spent one and a half of my two hours in the shop. We had to do so many alterations, we didn't even finish fitting the bodice!

I came in with a muslin cut using pattern size 12, based on my bust measurement (34"), as per the recommendation in the Craftsy course. Lynda Maynard recommends to always cut the size based on your bust and adjust the rest.

Here's what we did.

Adjustments we went through, in rough order:
Front Darts:
    Waist darts:
        * added 1.1cm to center front (throughout) to move darts further apart and get the positioned correctly
        * lowered darts by 2.5cm (1")
        * removed 1.2cm from each dart width
    Side darts:
         * lowered by about 1cm to point towards apex
Front waist:
         * dropped front bodice by 2.5 cm (1"), above the side dart, tapering at seams; this is the exact adjustment Lynda makes on both Betsy and Dolly in the "Upper body" lesson; the extra 2.5cm went into the side dart - I still need to move the point on that dart
Shoulder seams:
          * moved forward 2.5cm.
Back darts:
           * unpicked, removed 1cm width (so center back remains on grain); the teacher said she would have just taken the darts out and taken the seam in at the center back, but I preferred to keep the CB on grain since this will give me the option of moving the zipper to the side later.
           * moved 1cm towards CB
Swayback:
            * removed 2.5cm from center back, tapering to nothing at side seams

These feel like many alterations. I photocopied my pattern before I started transferring, and I will make a new muslin soon. Hopefully the only thing not fitting in that muslin will be the upper back. I'm going back for my final 30 minutes and a new fitting next week.

The only difference to Craftsy that I could see was that the shoulder seams were the last thing to be moved (they were the first thing moved in the Craftsy class). I'm not sure what to think about that, and the alteration was performed differently: we moved the whole seam (front and back), whereas on Craftsy the front staid the same and the back was the only one to move forward. I'm curious to see what the new muslin will look like!

I'll try to get some pictures up as well soon!

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